- 317-870-3122
- info@topkartusa.net
- Mon - Thu: 9:00am - 5:00pm | Fri: 9:00am - 4:00pm
Allen Wrenches
Box Wrenches
Other Tooling Items
11.1 – Begin by installing the drive sprocket keyway into the slot machined into the motor driveshaft.
11.1.2 – Choose the desired front drive sprocket size to use. Make sure the set screws are backed out enough that they do not protrude inside the sprocket while sliding onto the shaft, otherwise you may mark up your drive shaft and it could result in difficulty to install / remove later.
PRO TIP: A good rule of of thumb is aligning the end of sprocket with the end of shaft as a baseline placement as this can be shifted before completion if needed.
11.1.3 – Use the 1/8″ allen wrench to lightly lock down the front sprocket so it may not move while doing the next steps.
11.2 – Select your desired rear axle sprocket size and prepare for placing onto sprocket hub.
11.2.2 – Begin by installing 1 of the halves onto the hub. Finger tighten the nuts onto bolts until it reaches the nylock and you can’t spin nut on any further. Repeat process with the second half of the sprocket.
PRO TIP – The sprocket typically has a hash mark where they meet. You’ll want to align those with each other as a common mistake is if one side of the sprocket is flipped upon install onto carrier hub and causes for difficulty aligning perfectly when mounting the chain.
11.3 – Take your 5mm Allen Wrench and 10mm Box Wrench to lightly snug all 6 bolts to fasten the sprocket to the carrier. You still want to very slightly move the sprocket halves to proper gap where each of the halves meet together. This part is important to get right otherwise the chain will on the sprocket in motion causing tight or loose spots in the chain when you roll the axle.
11.4 – When the gap is equal on both sides begin fully tightening. Start with the bolts closest to the split. Do one on one side and then the other on other side. Then spin to the other split half and repeat same process. Ensure that either side gap has not increased. If confirmed everything is still same once those 4 are tightented, finish tightening the center bolts.
11.5 – With the Sniper Chain Alignment Tool, insert it onto the rear drive sprocket to begin alignment of the rear and front drive sprockets. Slide the rear sprocket hub until the laser is in the middle of the front drive sprocket. Once you have your desired setting. Use the 5mm Allen Wrench to tighten the hub pinch bolts. Keep the aligner on while doing this to make sure the hub doesn’t move in the tightening process.
11.5.2 – You can now fully tighten your front drive sprocket if you haven’t already from before.
Pro Tip – You can use a small dab of Blue Loctite on the set screws for the front drive sprocket. Doing this will help prevent the screws from backing out when on track.
11.6 – Grab your chain and lay across the sprockets to wrap around and get an idea of how much you will need to remove for proper fitting where you have your motor placed. This can all vary with different sprocket sizes combinations and where you have your motor mount placed on the frame.
11.6.2 – Once you check how many teeth need to be removed, you can grab your chain break tool and remove the desired links from chain.
11.7 – Upon linking chain back together, it is recommended to run the pin back about 90% of the way with the bolt end, and then move it to the spot where you can push it with the pin screw. Running it in until the pin matches on either side with the links next to. This helps prevent smashing the link if done completely with the push bolt side when you get to the end.
11.8 – Install the properly lengthened chain onto the sprockets. Fit the chain onto drive sprocket first and then onto rear sprocket for easiest installment.
11.9 – Adjust your motor assembly forward or backward to provide the chain with proper tension.
PRO TIP – You want too tight or that will rob energy from the system while running. Also, too loose will run the risk of coming off and throwing a chain. A good rule of thumb to use is when the motor mount clamps are tight, you want to be able to lift the chain on the rear sprocket about 1/2 a tooth at the top of sprocket.
Note – This is a trial and error process that may take a few attempts to get the desired tension outcome. When you tighten the lower engine clamps the chain tension may get either more loose or tight so it is possible you will need to loosen and reposition again for achieving the best possible result.
11.10 – After your motor is tight and chain tension set, run the motor stop bolt up to the back of the motor mount. This prevents the motor from being able to slide back and significantly loosen the chain if the clamps end up getting loose while on track.
Website Development By
